Rachel Roddy’s recipe for cherries in wine

In his 2007 book, The Last Food of England, Marwood Yeatman tells a story of a vicar in Landkey, Devon, who noticed the scarlet mouths of his congregation when they sang hymns in high summer. The stain came from mazzards, the West Country name for Prunus avium, the wild or sweet cherries native to the British isles that have been eaten since prehistoric times. The vicar’s memories are of a time when north Devon – particularly the area around Landkey and nearby Barnstaple and Goodleigh – was famous for its mazzards, when trees bearing fruit occupied hedges, closes, village greens and gardens; when handfuls could be pulled from branches and eaten on the way to school or church, to be revealed during O Jesus I Have Promised. Imagining an entire congregation with scarlet mouths, tongues and streaky teeth, fingertips and nail cuticles too, is the most wonderful picture. I am reminded of eating blackberries as a child, putting more in my mouth than into Tupperware, then pointing a scratched arm at my brother’s devilish mouth and laughing until my eye twitched. Also, of a lunch not very long ago, when I got drunk on wine and cherries with a woman… Read full this story

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